Tag Archives: fiesta

SOS 4.8 Festival, Murcia

12 May sos 4.8, murcia, festival, josh taylor

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, josh taylor

If there’s one thing that Spain knows how to run well, it’s a festival.

Last weekend, I went to SOS 4.8 festival in Murcia. It was my first trip to Murcia, and my fourth – and largest – festival so far here in Spain. Headlining the event were The xx, Bloc Party, M83 and Justice – four class acts that by chance I’d seen play live the year before at Open’er Festival in Poland. Normally, a lineup identical to one at a festival I’d recently attended wouldn’t seduce me so easily, but as I said, these are class acts, and I really, really love festivals.

At €35 for ‘el abono’, SOS is/was an absolute bargain. As it transpired, I ended up paying €55 as I had foolishly waited for a press accreditation destined for rejection until the week before the event. I didn’t care though; I was going, my mates from the UK were going and a sh*t load of booze was going too.

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, josh taylor, camping

Unofficial camping – only €50!

I also made huge savings on transport and accommodation: My ride to Murcia came thanks to carshare website amovens.com – I paid just €15 to get there and was regaled with army stories from my militant driver the whole way (actually enjoyable, honest), and I stayed in an unofficial but nearby campsite where a tent had already been provided for me, at the cost of €50…

With a capacity of around 20,000 and still plenty of elbow space, SOS is/was also the perfect size. I rarely had to queue for more than five minutes either for the toilet or bar, though this may have had more to do with the fact that drink prices had been hiked to the unashamedly ludicrous for the weekend– €7.50 for a large beer anyone? Thought not. But at festivals it’s effectively inescapable, unless you’re one of the lucky ones who manage to smuggle a premixed 2-litre bottle of God knows what in owing to the slipshod security – I even saw one lad pull a mini keg of Heineken from his backpack once inside…

I suppose I better say something about the music then.

We arrived on Friday to the poprock sound of the peculiarly named Kakkmaddafakka. Until I actually saw the band’s name written down I’d genuinely thought that it had been a proper English word terribly mispronounced by Spanish speakers. Though all their songs were lost on me, they still provoked us into jumping around like morons.

The xx’s headlining set was up next. Lots of people go on about how the band’s melancholic sound doesn’t really work for festivals; that if you close your eyes you may as well be listening to your iPod on maximum volume etc.

Bollocks to that.

They are masters at what they do, and frankly if they attempted to jazz things up a bit with a quicker tempo I’m not sure anyone would like the outcome very much. Thankfully, they didn’t, and instead treated us to a wave of hits from both albums, all as moody and docile as we had readily anticipated. ‘Intro’ and ‘Crystalised’ stood out for me.

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, m83, anthony gonzalez, josh taylor

Shortly afterwards we were watching festival heavyweights Bloc Party waltz onto stage. With four albums to their name, there would certainly be no shortage of material, but disappointingly they did lean heavily on much of the newer stuff throughout the first half the set, which is always annoying at festivals. Eventually our patience was rewarded though, with a stream of classics headed with a rolling rendition of ‘Song For Clay’ and ‘Banquet’. Much better!

At various intervals lead singer Kele Okreke attempted to interact with his audience but his sentiments often fell on deaf ears:

“How’s everybody doing at the front!?”

A wee cheer is barely audible.

“And what about you lot in the VIP section?”

The crickets seemed to chirp in agreement at least.

After sidestepping our way through and partially joining in with the mother of all botellones outside the festival grounds on Saturday afternoon, we arrived in time for the latter half of Granada’s very own Lori Meyers. Spanish people were absolutely loving it; I wasn’t so convinced. Possibly because I didn’t know the words, or maybe it was due to my being dragged to the front where about 90% of the crowd looked about the same age as my teenage students. At 25 years old and 6ft 3”, I stood out like a sore thumb.

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, lori meyers, josh taylor

Lori Meyers

The first indulgence of the night came in the form of French ‘shoegazers’ M83, who, for all their years of grafting in the music-making business, have only become acquainted with large-scale festivals in recent times. Their breakthrough – and my favourite – album ‘Saturdays = youth’ won them deserved critical acclaim and the follow up ‘Hurry Up, We’re Dreaming’ was one of the bestselling albums of 2012. Suddenly, the front wasn’t such a bad place to be after all, as massive tracks ‘Reunion’, ‘We Are The Sky’ and the defining ‘Midnight City’ were belted out for all to sing and spring along to. It was the  performance of the weekend.

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, m83, josh taylor

M83

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, m83, anthony gonzalez, josh taylor

Later, the French takeover continued as Justice settled in to their pounding electro set packed with epic synths and explosive drops. The festival had officially turned hardcore. Following that, Vitalic, also from France, took to the stage to ensure that the mayhem continued and threw down yet another barrage of jarring electronica seemingly loud enough to break the sound barrier.

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, m83, crowd, josh taylor

At 6am, we conceded that it was time to be getting back – my friends to their four star hotel rooms; I to my diminutive, freezing cold tent, which quite frankly may as well have been a bed of nails. Can’t complain really though. SOS was just about the cheapest, proper music festival I’ve ever been to, yet easily one of the best and undoubtedly my best ever in Spain. Now let’s see if Territorios Sevilla has what it takes to change that next week…

sos 4.8, murcia, festival, josh taylor

Translation: ‘BIG TUNE!’

Spain’s summer festival roundup!

1 May festival, spain, españa, summer, blog

festival, spain, españa, summer, blog

At last! Festival season is here! And Spain is once again flexing its distended muscles in the upper bracket of Europe’s heavyweight division. It’s got all bases covered; from rock, pop, hip-hop and folk right through to reggae, dub, electro and other innumerable forms of dance music that have recently sprung from the blogosphere.

Moreover, all of these genres will be represented by an enviable portion of the biggest and best talents the music industry has to offer at festivals across the whole of Spain, almost all of which cost less than €100 to go to – an entrance fee now virtually unheard of in Britain. And, needless to say, there is sunshine in Spain, and lots of it in the summer.

But where the bejesus do we start?

Well let’s just focus on ten, disregard chronological order and break it down into three scale-based categories: enormous, large and small.

Enormous (50,000+)

I’d only ever heard of one festival before I came to Spain in 2010: Valencia’s FIB, a.k.a. Benicassim. Though not actually the largest festival in Spain, it is doubtless the most famous. Since its onset in 1995, the event has been an unwavering force on the Spanish festival scene, hosting acts such as Radiohead, Oasis, The Stone Roses, The Chemical Brothers and The Strokes. FIB is particularly popular among sun-starved Brits who account for a sizeable chunk of the crowd, and almost always sells out.

Dates: 18th - 21st of July

Pick of the 2013 line-up: Arctic Monkeys; The Killers; Queens of The Stone Age; Kaiser Chiefs; Primal Scream; Dizzee Rascal; Skream; The Courteeners

Price of ticket with camping: €163

Official website

Fotos de Benicasim - Imágenes destacadas

(Esta foto de Benicasim es cortesía de TripAdvisor)

But Valencia isn’t done there; two weeks later, and a mere 35 minutes down the road, the similarly indie-pop based Arenal Sound takes place on a giant quay jutting out from the shore of Castellón. In just three years Arenal has risen to become the largest of Spain’s festivals and last year attracted between eighty and ninety thousand punters. The festival’s line-up isn’t quite as A-list as Benicassim’s but at half the price for as many days, it is well worth the money.

Dates: 1st – 4th of August

Pick of the 2013 line-up: The Kooks; Editors; Klaxons; The Fratellis; The Macabees; Chase & Status; Ra Ra Riot; The Whip

Price of ticket with camping: €80 (+ ‘boat’)

Official website

Arenal Sound (Source)

Arenal Sound (Source)

Sonar takes place in Barcelona in mid June, and has earned itself a reputation for offering something many of the other Spanish festivals discernibly lack; modern art. This festival is as visually pleasing as it is audibly, with a marked emphasis on creativity and originality. Artists range from the world-renowned to the unfamiliar, and the music offered spans across all electronic genres. It’s expensive, though tickets can be bought for either the daytime or nighttime or both. However, there is no camping at Sonar – that’s way too predictable.

Dates: 13th – 15th of June

Pick of the 2013 line-up: Justice; Two Door Cinema Club; Pet Shop Boys; Skrillex; Kraftwerk; Jurassic 5; Soulwax; Modeselektor

Price of two-night ticket: €115 (no camping)

Official Website

Sonar

Sonar

Large (25,000 – 50,000)

Despite its name – ‘Spring’ in English – I’m still including Primavera Sound in this post; it’d be a glaring oversight if I didn’t. It is smaller than Sonar – the other Barcelona based festival – yet seems to be more popular in any case. According to the website, weekend tickets are already sold out for this year, but then if you consider its eclectic, stellar lineup for 2013 then its no wonder really.

Dates: 22nd – 26th of May

Pick of the 2013 lineup: Crystal Castles; Animal Collective; Blur; The Postal Service; Knife Party; Phoenix; Nick Cave and The Bad Seeds; Wu-Tang Clan

Price of day ticket: €80

Official website

Primavera Sound (Source)

Primavera Sound (Source)

If there’s one festival that couldn’t be surer of itself then Sonisphere is it. There’s no room for novel, pompous genres here; it’s metal, metal and more metal. And if you don’t like it, well then you can swivel and then DIIIEEE!!! WAAAHHH!!! No. I’m sure they’re all lovely people. The festival will take place in both Madrid and Barcelona, on two separate nights.

Dates: 31st May (Madrid), 1st June (Barcelona)

Pick of the 2013 lineup: Iron Maiden; Megadeath; Anthrax

Price of ticket: €59

Official Website

Sonisphere

Sonisphere

For the absolute deal of the summer, head to Bilbao BBK Live. The festival is now in its seventh year, and 2013 is shaping up to be the best yet. The event takes place in a huge 110,000 m² park and is growing in size every year. It’s also in Bilbao, which is hands down one of the coolest cities I’ve ever visited. Watch out FIB and Sonar is all I can say – BBK is rapidly cementing itself as a contender for Spain’s champion festival.

Dates: 11th – 14th of July

Pick of the 2013 lineup: Green Day; Kings Of Leon; Depeche Mode; Billy Talent; Editors; The Hives; Klaxons; Fat Boy Slim

Price of weekend ticket: €90 with camping!!!

Official website

Bilbao BBK Live (Source)

Bilbao BBK Live (Source)

In the middle of the desert somewhere between Zaragoza and Tarragona, you’ll find Monegros Festival, come one Saturday in late July. Here, for one night only, an army of around 40,000 people rave nonstop to the sound of thumping electro beats and rhythms for 20 hours. Once you’re in, there’s no getting back out. Take plenty of water and suncream.

Date: 20th of July

Pick of the 2013 lineup: Underworld; Bloody Beetroots; Vitalic; Public Enemy; Richie Hawtin; Luciano; Marco Corola; Loco Dice

Price of ticket: €65

Official website

Monegros (Source)

Monegros (Source)

Ever fancied going to Benidorm? Though not. But don’t write it off just yet – it seems the definitive Brits abroad package holiday destination has been going through some rigorous image counselling, and with the comically yet appealingly named Low Cost Festival now set to rock its sandal and sock strewn shores for a fifth consecutive year, it looks as though it is working. The festival is building itself quite a chic image and this year’s show of talent is looking very exciting indeed.

Dates: 26th – 29 July

Pick of the 2013 lineup: Portishead; Belle & Sebastian; Two Door Cinema Club; Crystal Castles; Glasvegas; Simian Mobile Disco

Price of ticket: €60 (camping: €10 per night)

Official website

Low Cost Festival (Source)

Low Cost Festival (Source)

Small(er) (8,000 – 25,000)

Smaller, yes; small, No. I get lost in crowds of less than fifty so anything above 8,000 still amounts to a sh*t load of people in my mind. These smaller festivals tend to start the ball rolling in late springtime; and the first is now just days away.

SOS 4.8 will be held in Murcia this weekend, and looks to have generated quite a bit of interest here in Granada, especially among Erasmus students. I’m going too of course! And I couldn’t be more excited, despite still not really knowing where I’m going to sleep. It’s a proper bargain, and the musical talent in the offing is of a pretty darn exceptional standard.

Dates: 3rd – 5th May

Pick of the 2013 lineup: Bloc Party; The xx; Justice; M83; Modeselektor; Vitalic; Crystal Fighters; Los Punsetes

Price of 2-night ticket: €55 (though early bird tickets are something like €35)

Official website

SOS 4.8 (Source)

SOS 4.8 (Source)

Fast-forward two weeks and it’s the turn of Seville’s Territorios Sevilla, which, despite its comparatively smaller capacity at 15,000, probably offers the most diverse and multinational lineup. It’s a two-night bash taking place in the centre of the city, and is a refreshing variation from the usual feria-fixated feel during the spring/summer time. However, it does tend to blow a considerable chunk of its budget on the headliners, evidenced by the fact that nobody ever has a clue who any of the other artists are. As I say though – diverse and multinational. I’ve been before and it was smashingly good fun.

Dates: 17th – 18th May

Pick of the 2013 lineup: Fat Boy Slim; 2Many DJs; Emir Kusturika & The No Smoking Orchestra; Fangoria; Standstill

Price of ticket: €30

Official website

Territorios Sevilla (Source)

Territorios Sevilla (Source)

Festivals are awesome. Go to one.

All aboard La Sala El Tren, Granada

18 Feb salatrensg9

salatrensg9There aren’t many things I miss about the UK, but the ease of finding a decent club night is undoubtedly one of them. While there exists a great deal of quality live music in Granada, finding it, from time to time, can be a trying task. This can be broadly attributed to the fact that the city’s clubbing scene caters almost exclusively for its burgeoning Erasmus community. You need only set foot in either ‘Granada 10’– a glittery cinema-converted discotheque located in the city centre, or ‘El Camborio’– a two-story hilltop-perched nightclub which, somewhat incongruously, faces the majestic Alhambra Palace, to get wind of that. Both are the most popular club venues in Granada and both play the worst music. It’s a crying shame considering the design and layout of the venues themselves.

Further investigation, however, will prove more fruitful, and La Sala El Tren is perhaps the best example of that. Over the last decade, the warehouse-sized venue has staged a variety of live acts and big-name DJs in the jungle/dub scene – often to sell-out crowds – courtesy of various events labels. Substation is doubtless the most notorious of these, and has in recent years lured the likes of DJ Hype, Congo Natty and Asian Dub Foundation to the Granadian juke joint. More recently, La Sala hosted Tarragona’s Bongo Botrako, whose rumba, reggae and trumpet-fronted rhythms had the 500-strong crowd bouncing in one gleeful and frenzied ska-pit for hours on end.

Tonight though, once again thanks to Substation, it is the turn of drum & bass outfit Dirtyphonics to shake the reverberating venue to its core. Back for their second outing in twelve months, the Parisian duo have drawn a sizable horde for the event – evidenced by the queue more akin to a rugby scrum spewing forth from the door on our arrival. Casual chatter in the scrum reveals why:

“I come here from Jaén” exclaims one bass fan in front.

“And me Valencia!” blurts another, “There is my car!” He nods in the direction of an old, rusting hatchback, complete with a joke-sized speaker system that can be seen through the rear window. It is not the only one. In fact, there is a dozen or so more neatly lined up along the other side of the street, each hammering out their own distorted tempos to their own private posses of rum-chugging ravers. This sort of thing isn’t unusual for La Sala – there is even a dilapidated petrol station to the rear that routinely serves as an overspill area for the club itself. A heightened sense of zeal hangs in the air as we edge closer to the door.

Dirtyphonics eventually take to the stage at 4am, and hold nothing back from the onset. It is pure, undiluted rowdiness; a roaring flow of skanking frequencies and earsplitting basslines from start to finish. It’s unlikely that a great deal of those present will know more than one or two tunes, but people aren’t here to sing along. They are here to dance, lose all inhibitions and behave like demented people for a few hours. There isn’t a still-bodied individual in sight.

Towards the end of the set, Pitchin, one quarter of the Dirtyphonics, can’t resist an impromptu stage dive into the pulsating crowd. It goes down well, as does the fervent spokesman’s final sentiment before they depart:

“Muchas gracias! Nos encanta Granada!”

And we love you too, Dirtyphonics. Please come back soon.

crowdsurf

Cadiz Carnival: A Step-by-step Guide

13 Feb Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

If there’s one festive tradition I’ve kept since moving to Spain, it is Cadiz’s Carnaval. Given that this year marked my hat-trick, I’d like to think that I now have a good case for assuming expertise on the discernibly anarchic event. Those of you that have been before know the drill. Those of you who haven’t will either have:

  1. Stayed away on purpose
  2. Not had the opportunity or enough ganas to actually make the trip or
  3. Have no idea what I’m going on about.

To the former, I understand your disaffection – it is no doubt to a certain extent justified and the likely reasons for it will be addressed. To the latter two clutches, please lend me your ear as I guide you through the crammed and cluttered alleyways of Cadiz while giving you a thorough and honest step-by-step compendium of the unruly and manic street-thrash that is Carnaval.

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta, cathedral

Cadiz Cathedral

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

The Basics

The principle is simple. Turn up in a daft-looking costume and join the colourfully clad masses to form one giant, stumbling, booze-guzzling party monster that permeates Cadiz’s streets for an entire weekend.

The effects are simple too. Drinking from noon onwards in the company of hundreds of thousands of other similarly cracked and self-intoxicating socialites results in very blurry vision and widespread disorientation on an extraordinary level. It is sheer anarchy, on a colossal scale.

But what makes Cadiz Carnaval so fantastically different from any other fancy-dress blowout is its distinctly fertile imagination; costumes will often relate to trending and controversial news topics without even so much as a whiff of self-acknowledged ignominy. Though the event is best known for its chirigotas – satirical groups of performers who dress identically and serenade other revelers with witty refrains about politics, current affairs and everyday life. Each chirigota – whether made up of professionals, family members or friends – has a wide repertoire of songs and typically station themselves on steps or high walls where everyone can watch. Even if you don’t understand Spanish it’s not hard to tell that they’ve been practicing for weeks. It’s a pretty big deal.

What not to wear

The obvious answer here would of course be ‘normal clothes’. Though there’s a lot more to it than that. Skimpy t-shirts/shorts/vests/ generally anything that shows a bit too much skin is a massive no-no. As a rookie, you’d be forgiven for turning up dressed in your used-once-only-at-Uni Baywatch costume – we are in Spain after all – but Cadiz is an island, and during the winter is pummeled by winds from both the Atlantic and Mediterranean. In other words it’s fucking freezing. Lose the Speedos and take the Top Gear jumpsuit instead.

Now earlier I alluded to there potentially being several downsides to Carnaval. Well there are, although in my respectful opinion these are far outweighed by the upsides. A major one of these downsides, however, is the matter of going for a piss. Naturally, it is less of an issue for boys than girls, owing to the relative ease with which we can find a deserted and already piss-strewn doorway. Not that I’m condoning the act – there is just simply no alternative. Girls face a much more problematic task, though I tend not to ask where and how. At any rate, by the early hours the streets are absolutely inundated with pure liquid gold, so do not wear shitty €3 pumps bought from a chino if you’d like your feet to remain dry and pee-free. A sturdy set of trainers/boots are the way to go. These chaps have all got the right idea (and they all had suitable footwear):

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

What to bring

If you should decide to take a bag, or have been involuntarily appointed inebriant-keeper for the day/night, you will no doubt be wondering how to keep weight down. First off, pack extra alcohol. Decanting spirits from glass bottles into plastic ones and then mixing with coke will significantly reduce the load by a few kgs. Also take plastic cups and don’t forget those emergency beers either. Now that the important part’s taken care of, cram a hoody (and an extra pair of socks if you actually did buy some shitty €3 chino pumps) and plenty of munchies in there and you’re all set.

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

Last year’s Edward Scissorhands costume was part of the ‘Tim Burton’s characters’ theme. Bumped into this fella whose hands were distinctly better than mine.

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

Tweedledum never did find Tweedledee

Who not to go with

  • People that are likely to constantly whine, moan and walk about with a face like a smacked arse. It will only massively piss you off and probably ruin your night.
  • Mates that just want to get their end away – you’ll rapidly lose patience with them and wind up storming off and then feeling guilty when the next day you find out that they spent the rest of the night alone.
  • Scroungers. They’ll slurp all that boozy-goodness up and you’ll be left tipple-less before you know it.
Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

A mere drop in the litter-laden ocean

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

How not to get lost

Forget phones. If the signal isn’t jammed then actually managing to meet someone somewhere via your mobile when lost is futile – nobody knows where the fuck anything is when there’s that many people about. If truth be told, keeping all your troops in tow for the event’s entirety is a rare feat. This year, my band of merrymakers and I began as a mere threesome and thankfully ended as one, though we had for several hours in between been part of a much larger brigade. Of the hazy memories of my first year, I can recall wandering alone for what I thought had been about fifteen minutes. Next day my friend told me I had been lost for almost three hours. So this year’s result was definitely a favourable one.

Getting lost or losing friends is essentially an inevitability that one must face prior to Carnaval, unless, as I have now learnt, you decide to create a group theme so original that it would be impossible to lose each other. Take these happy carousers for example:

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

Favourite of the night!

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

Also rather impressive

And I think that just about covers it. I suppose my final word of advice would be to just make sure that if you’re going to do Carnaval then do it properly, and accept it for what it is. There’s nothing refined or pretentious about Carnaval – it is a no holds barred, debauched and raucous piss-up which in its latter stages is unreservedly disgusting. But it is one of the most epic fancy dress parties on the planet. And that’s surely worth investigating isn’t it?

Cadiz, carnaval, carnival, spain, party, fiesta

Have you ever been to Carnaval in Cadiz or any other larger-than-life fancy dress street party? What did you think? Would you go back?

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