Tag Archives: expat life

My list of invaluable online resources as an expat living in Spain

15 May online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

We had a power cut the other night.

I hate power cuts, and especially when they happen at night; I am invariably prevented from doing anything that I want to be doing (if my laptop battery is low, which is often) and I can’t boil the kettle or use the hob, therefore am unable to make myself a cup of tea, which causes the sort of anguish that no man should ever have to bare.

As a kid, I’d jump for joy if ever there were a power cut, and then rush off to the loft to unearth some dusty board game (usually Risk or Monopoly) while Mum sorted out the candles and Dad waited in a dark corner with the torch held under his chin, ready to click it on and petrify me when I emerged with the board game underarm.

On this occasion, my instinct reaction was very different. I swore, sighed, got up (still swearing), wandered off to fetch a candle and then began reading a book. Of course I like reading books, but not when I am forced to do so and generally not at night – it’s much more of a daytime, terrace, coffee and sunshine thing for me.

Inevitably, the lights flickered back into life within moments of having sat down, and my untimely, darkened interlude was over almost as abruptly as it had started. I drifted insentiently back to my computer and settled down into my swivel chair to resume my evening of mindless web browsing.

And that’s when it hit me – just how reliant I have become on the internet as a tool not only for casual distraction, but for everything I do. Before coming to Spain, I hadn’t been so unremittingly consumed with it; Facebook, uni stuff, fantasy football league and one or two news websites were just about the extent of my web browsing. Truthfully, I had neither the time nor reason to use it for other means.

Evidently, that’s all changed now, and after a bit of a ponder and several cups of Yorkshire’s finest, I’ve drawn up a list of the online resources that I deem to be categorically invaluable to me, as a young (barely), working, travel-fervid expat here in Spain.

If you live under similar circumstances or have done before, then perhaps you’ll be inclined to agree with some. If you’ve never called yourself ‘expat’ but are thinking about it, then I assure you, ALL of the following will be hugely helpful in the settling in process – I only wish I hadn’t had to find (most of) them myself…

#1 Couchsurfing

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

Fair enough, you don’t have to be an expat to become a ‘couchsurfer’ – the worldwide social networking site is for anyone, anywhere – but if you’re living away from home, you’ll invariably be surrounded by new and interesting places that you will no doubt want to investigate on a regular basis.

Couchsurfing is the perfect way to go about doing this. You save lots of pennies and meet lots of very agreeable, local people, who are likely to show you around town or at the very least send you on your way with an elaborately modified map.

What’s more, couchsurfing also offers expats the opportunity to meet other, like-minded people in their own cities. It wasn’t until my impromptu trip to Pamplona last March that I realised the potential benefits of attending regular meet-ups here in Granada. Before that experience, couchsurfing had only ever been a service I occasionally needed whilst travelling or offered to other travellers. Now I attend the Granada forum’s intercambio every week and meet new people from all over the world every week. It’s a huge part of my life.

#2 Car sharing websites

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

In a recent post about SOS 4.8 Festival in Murcia, I alluded to the Spanish car-sharing website amovens.com. This particular site is probably my favourite, as it never seems to let me down. I’ve also used blabacar.es and carpooling.es, albeit each on just one occasion, but both were equally as positive experiences.

To give you an idea of the savings I make using these types of sites, consider that a one-way train ticket to Seville from Granada costs €29 and lasts just over three hours. Now consider that I made that same journey in almost half that time at a third of the price. I’ll say it again…

There is of course that element of risk involved, but I’ve never heard any horror stories to put me off. Girls, understandably, are and ought to be more cautious, but like couchsurfing, many of these sites function on a reference-based system, so that any would-be passengers may give their would-be drivers the onceover before making arrangements. The golden rule is that you do not fall asleep; this is both rude and dangerous!

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

#3 Tusclasesparticulares.com

It took until my third year here in Spain to stumble across this gem of a site. Whether you are planning to stay in Spain as a short-term or long-term expat, you will, inevitably, at some point begin teaching English. It’s the easiest job to find and with a bit of luck you’ll be able to find a decent academy who treat their staff well. I am fortunate enough to be able to count myself among the few English teachers here in Granada who are paid well, on time and most important of all – legally. Others aren’t so lucky, and often find themselves scrapping for hours and desperately trying to seek out private students.

Tusclasespartiulares.com is a service that makes this issue a hell of a lot simpler. Students – of any language – and language teachers alike may create a profile and post short ads detailing their needs/services etc. Users can instantly see prices, hours of availability, relevant experience and so on.

Earlier this year, I created my own profile and received around 10 messages within the first week. Some came from private students and others from directors of local academies asking if I’d like to come for an interview for a part or in some cases full time position. It’s a surefire way to get the moneys rolling in.

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor, teaching in spain

#4 Expatforum.com

This site provided me with answers when I needed them most.

Last year, I went through hell and back trying to replace my lost NIE at Granada’s oficina de extranjero (complainy post in the works). Those of you who already live in Spain will almost certainly be aware of just how infuriatingly slow and tedious Spanish bureaucracy can be. I was desperate for a new certificate so that I could legitimately claim el paro (extremely generous unemployment benefit) over my jobless summer, but ran into countless stumbling blocks along the way.

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

Hours of frantic Google searches led me to expatforum.com, where I was at last able to read something concerning the matter in English and, after registering as a user, send beseeching messages to the senior, Spanish bureaucracy hardened members. Eventually, I resolved my issue by requesting and subsequently being granted a temporary residence card, but I very nearly had to cry in order to get what I wanted. I didn’t cry, but probably would’ve done had it not been for some expert guidance via the Spain page on expat forum.

#5 Second-hand / flat-share websites

I’m guessing sites like this exist in just about every country by now. The US has Craigslist and the UK have spareroom.co.uk, gumtree.com and flatshare.com. All of them work amazingly well. Here in Spain, you have to look a bit harder for the better ones. I use easypiso.com (branch of easyroommate.com) and loquo.com to find potential places to live.

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

It’s just chaos in the mornings…

My first year using easypiso.com yielded a moderate apartment with excellent flat mates (except one, asshole) and the second pretty much the opposite way around; I now live in an incredible, modern, three-floor house with a terrace, patio and soundproof basement. However, my housemates and I do not get along, and I recently decided that, despite how in love I am with the house, the people with whom I live are more important, so I’ll be enlisting the services of easypiso or loquo once again this coming June.

I should also mention that loquo.com, as well as segundamano.es, are fantastic sites for buying second hand stuff. I’ve bought a phone, a bike and various other bits and pieces, and met with the seller in person every time. Waaay better than ebay.

 online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

#6 Wordreference.com, NOT Google Translate

Thanks to wordreference.com, I am able to trick people who I only speak Spanish to on Facebook into thinking that my Spanish is completely flawless. I can use words like ‘diluviando’ or ‘quisquilloso’ or (personal fave) ‘zarrapastroso’ and pretend as though I didn’t just look it up in two seconds flat. Better still, each translation yields two, three or even four uses of the word in context, so you are able to choose which word suits what you want to say best.

The same cannot be said for the erroneous Google Translate. Often, a search for a single word will turn up numerable results, with no contexts given as examples. If an entire phrase or paragraph is copied, pasted and translated, the result is even more inaccurate, as complex grammatical structures somehow seem too much for Google’s gargantuan brain to deal with.

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

I must admit, since I downloaded the app for my smartphone I have perhaps become ever so slightly overindulgent. Beforehand, I used it as a quick fix whenever I was reading or writing in Spanish online. These days, it’s whenever I am momentarily unsure of how to say something, when in actual fact I could probably wrest it out of me if I just mulled it over for another minute.

#7 Twitter

online resources, expat, living away from home, travel, blog, josh taylor

Now no list of invaluable expat resources would be complete without giving an honourable mention to Twitter now would it? Frankly, I’d be lost without it.

Since finally giving in and joining shortly before Christmas, it has become an almost exclusive news resource for me. There is, however, a lot of distracting, pointless dross that when clicked on swallows up a good chunk of my day. And that isn’t good.

I can’t keep up with it to tell you the truth, but I do like retweeting things I find funny or interesting. I’d retweet this if I hadn’t already tweeted it.

God that’s the most incredibly twattish-sounding thing I’ve ever said on here.

 

Expats, would-be expats and er, ex-expats! What are your most invaluable resources in your adopted homeland? Do pitch in!

How to Get The Best Euro Exchange Rate When You Head to Spain

8 May euro exchange rate, euro, exchange, rate, spain

by Peter Lavelle

Find here 6 tips to get the best euro exchange rate, whether you’re just holidaying in Spain or, like Josh, relocating entirely.

euro exchange rate, euro, exchange, rate, spain

1. Check the exchange rate as soon as you know you’re going to Spain.

This is because it gives you the biggest possible window to get a good exchange rate. If, on the other hand, you wait until the last minute to exchange currencies, you’ll have to accept whatever exchange rate is available, even if it’s bad.

That could mean you get a smaller euro total.

 

2. Check the exchange rate regularly with Google.

To find out if the exchange rate is good or not, you can use Google.

Go to Google, and enter “pound to euro”. Google will deliver the latest exchange rate, as well as those stretching back to 2009.

With this, you can tell if the current exchange rate is good or not, as well as watch what happens.

euro exchange rate, euro, exchange, rate, spain

3. Set reasonable expectations for your exchange rate.

This is because, if your expectations are too high, you’ll be left waiting for an exchange rate that never arrives.

Instead then, look at where the exchange rate has been in the last 3 months.

This will give you a sense of what the euro is currently doing, and what exchange rate you can reasonably expect.

 

4. Take a good exchange rate the moment it becomes available.

If you see an exchange rate you like, take it there and then.

This is because the foreign exchange market is volatile, and a good exchange rate can quickly disappear. For example, if you wait to see how high the exchange rate climbs, it could fall before you know it, and you may lose out.

euro exchange rate, euro, exchange, rate, spain

5. Compare the exchange rate you’re offered from a bank with that from a foreign exchange broker.

This is because a foreign exchange broker will provide an exchange rate up to 4.0% better than a bank. On a large transfer, this adds up to hundreds or thousands of euros extra.

In addition, you won’t pay charges or commission with a foreign exchange broker. By comparison, a bank charges up to £40 per transfer.

 

6. If you like the exchange rate, but don’t yet want your money in Spain, set up a forward contract.

A forward contract lets you lock in the exchange rate where it is, so that even if the rate changes later on, that’s the exchange rate you get.

For instance, if the pound rises to 1.20 against the euro, and you set up a forward contract, you’ll get 1.20, even if the pound later falls to 1.15.

euro exchange rate, euro, exchange, rate, spain

Get an exchange rate forecast

Get in touch at foreign exchange broker Pure FX to find out what we think will happen to the euro exchange rate.

We’d be delighted to give you an exchange rate forecast.

Project Piste 2 Playa: Granada’s Ultimate Daytrip

23 Apr piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip
piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

10.20am

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

15.55pm

“Esquiar por la mañana y tomar el sol en la playa por la tarde!”

­–

“Ski in the morning and sunbathe on the beach in the afternoon!”

That’s how the saying goes here in Granada. Personally, I had always been a little dubious. Not in the sense that I didn’t believe the feat was possible, just as to whether the trip was actually worth the hassle. I mean, snow-covered mountains, albeit much higher up than the stony beaches to the south, must surely be an indication of not-so-hot ground level temperatures? And all that travelling to and fro; hiring a car if you don’t already have one; and the cost of a lift pass that you’d only use for half a day? Hmm.

The idea seemed far-fetched, if not imprudent. But then I asked myself, where’s the fun in life if every now and again a little imprudence isn’t applied to an otherwise perfectly prudent situation? All it had taken was a sudden heat wave and for one friend to casually suggest the idea and I was sold; if there ever was a time to do it, that time was now (or then, rather). We would see this niggling and unproven myth busted right open, and not become disillusioned by mounting expenses or the inevitable struggle of having to tear ourselves away from the mountain come lunch time.

A car was hired for the weekend, which, split between four, wasn’t at all as costly as we had anticipated (see price breakdown below), and better still, the weekend’s weather forecast couldn’t have looked more promising.

The objective was simple: Arrive at the Sierra Nevada for around 08.30am in time for the first lift, ski relentlessly until 13.00pm, grab lunch, hit the road and be at the beach with beer in hand for 15.00pm. It was on.

P2P LOG

07.45am

We awake to crisp, cloudless skies, and begin the day with the galling task of having to wedge our skis, boards, boots, beach bags, sandwiches and springtime, animal-themed onesies into the back of our awfully cramped Ford Fiesta. Eventually, after an accidental detour into the abyss of Granada’s one-way street maze, we are on our way.

09.40am

We finally shuffle into the Telecabina cable car and begin ascending the mountain, though we are already way behind schedule. Traffic had been scarce along the way but a combination of lengthy queuing, impromptu toilet breaks and my apparent inability to dress myself into a giraffe suit had held us up. Sun is shining brightly though, and it’s smiles all round.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

09.55am

The snow, as we had expected, is pure slush, which means gathering speed will be hard, but the pistes are looking surprisingly bare, given that it’s a Sunday. Slush can still be fun anyhow. We make the quick descent to the Stadium chair and dare I say turn a few jealous heads as we zip past in our effortlessly trendy garb.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

10.15am

There’s less slush at the top, but a bit of a draft that sets off an uncomfortable spell of nipple chafage. It soon wanes however, as we waste no time in launching ourselves back whence we came.

11.30am

With two mandatory runs down the stadium completed, we plot our next foray. We spy that Laguna – a run that for one reason or another has eluded us each time we have visited – is open. We make a beeline for its entrance, which involves crossing another, wide and often quite busy piste to get to. Earlier this season I discovered that at the expense of one very indignant skier. This time though, there are far less people to worry about, and despite the stickiness of the increasingly watery slush, other snowboarding friend and I manage to make it across in one clean sweep (skiers needn’t worry what with those stabilizers poles they use).

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

11.45am

I get bored of the flat section and veer off-piste. Big mistake. We are on the backside of the mountain now, which up until this point has seen very little sunlight. Thus, rather than the mushy slushy stuff I was actually rather beginning to enjoy, I am met with a steep grade of rock-hard ice, which then develops into actual rocks. Thankfully, I am able to quickly dodge and navigate my way through without falling or scratching my board (much).

12.30pm

Back at Laguna’s summit, we head as far right as possible, to where there appears to be some actual snow. We are wrong. It’s just more ice slowly melting into slush, though we do find a nice jump, which, after a rather wobbly run-up, I fling myself from with one arm flailing in my wake.

13.00pm

Time for a stroll in the Sulayr superpark. Things have improved since our last outing – at least at the top anyway. Three more boxes and a slanting picnic table have been added, and features of the resort’s recent Freestyle World Cup still remain, though almost all of the jumps are unworkable due to yet more slush. Further down, however, there is a nice beginner section that allows for fast grabs and mini spins. Fortunately, I do not almost kill myself like the last time, though the giraffe onesy at this point has become extremely sweaty. One more run and it’s back to the bottom for a quick bite to eat and Piste 2 Playa part two.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

14.30pm

Fed, changed and almost an hour and a half behind schedule, we finally exit the resort and begin the race down to the coast. The overabundance of slush had meant that it wasn’t as difficult to drag ourselves away.

Playa de Cantarriján is the chosen destination. I have kept my onesy on so I can have my photo taken in the same clothes on the mountain and the beach. This, rather predictably, turns out to be another big mistake, as the temperature seems to increase by at least half a degree for every mile we cover. Photos are taken and some high-pitched whoops are let out before I promptly fall into a dribbling coma.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

The car clock was an hour behind…

15.45pm

I awake to a cheer. We have arrived at Cantarriján, a small, secluded beach just beyond Almuñecar, where, judging by first glance, there doesn’t appear to be an awful lot of beachgoers. I am dripping wet by now, but refuse to remove my novelty outfit until that memorable snapshot is taken. We make our way from the car park.

15.47pm

So it turns out Cantarriján is a nudist beach, yet as we saunter past the restaurant and onto the scrabrous sands the only oddball being gawped at is me. In fact I could not be dressed more inappropriately. The photos are promptly taken, the onesy duly taken – sorry – peeled off and the afternoon’s first beverage cracked open and swiftly consumed. We’ve done it.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

Highly inappropriate garb for a nudist beach

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

16.15pm

Time for a dip in the sea. We last a mere 10 seconds before retreating in tandem with an outburst of squealing more redolent of a group of 12-year old girls. It’s back to the towels, where we eventually pass out to the sound of woozy indie music and gentle waves lapping against the shore.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrippiste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

17.40pm

We awake, and sluggishly make our way to the beachside restaurant for an early dinner. The views, if you’ll forgive the surfeit of unkempt genitalia on show, are wonderful, and the food – freshly caught Bacalao served with chips and steamed veg – and accompanying mojitos go down very well indeed.

20.00pm

As the last of the sun’s rays finally disappears behind the craggy overhang, we concede that it is time to leave. We cram ourselves back into the Fiesta and begin the steady climb to the highway.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

Delish

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

20.05pm

The car boot is wide open, and none of us have noticed.

“Maletero abierto?” my friend says bewilderedly as she points to the dashboard.

“Shit. The boot’s open” replies another, as we suddenly break.

We each envisage a snowboard skidding its way down the hill and ending up beneath the wheel of an unsuspecting vehicle. Fortunately, all skis and snowboards are still with us, but we learn from the next car to arrive that a Tupperware box had been narrowly averted a few corners back. It was mine.

“Step on it” I tell my friend, “we are not leaving without it”. I’m not joking – that Tupperware box is an essential vessel for mountain fodder and I’d be hard-pressed to find another one as good. Thankfully, the box is retrieved and we can all breathe a sigh of relief. The journey recommences.

20.25pm

Stuck in heavy traffic. Not looking good for getting the car back to the hire office (at Granada airport) on time.

22.15pm

Made it – with fifteen minutes to spare, though we have just missed the bus back to Granada city centre and must wait for another that leaves at 23.00pm. No matter. We crumple to a heap among our bags, boards and skis and reflect on what has been a truly epic day. Mission complete.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

Fail

The trip was well worth doing, despite my initial uncertainty, and will most definitely be repeated next season. Unfortunately it also marked our last day at the Sierra Nevada for this season, which by the way, has been brilliant, even if I did only make it up six times.

Here’s a breakdown of the cost of our ‘piste 2 playa’ daytrip:

Car Hire: €35

Car Hire Insurance (optional): €36

Petrol: €45

Total (split between four): €115

Ski pass: €41

Parking Fee (between four): €10

Ski rental (if you don’t have your own equipment): €20

Other expenses

Lunch at the beach: €11

Two mojitos: €10

Has anybody else ever attempted this grand challenge? Would you now you know that its doable? Please share and comment!

A Spanish Inquisition: A Lot Of Wind

17 Apr robin graham, a lot of wind, tarifa, spain

I love a good story, and one of the things I look forward to most when rummaging through my weekly digest on a Sunday afternoon is the latest literary endeavour of Robin, of A Lot Of Wind. The blog is as honest as it is compelling, with no real genre to label it with. There’re lots of stories – all fabulously well-written; as many photography galleries – equally as fabulous; and various travel blurbs on many of Spain’s most admired cities and regions.

Robin, who hails from a distinctly less sunnier Dublin, now lives in and writes about Tarifa – Spain and indeed Europe’s southernmost point – which I suppose is how the blog got its name, given the small surfing town’s ocean exposed locale. Today’s inquisition probes into just what led Robin to be where he is today, thoughts on ‘expat experts’ and what, other than a lot of wind, is so lovely about Tarifa.

Let’s get started.

Name: Robin Graham

From: Dublin

Occupation: A one word question that begets a long meandering answer – let’s just say writer.

Time in Spain: A few months short of three years – I came in August 2010.

About Blog: Well, it isn’t really a travel blog although I’ve had a good bit of support from that community. I don’t like the term ‘expat blog’. I’ll be honest with you – I don’t think much of the term ‘blog’. I just try to hold myself to a weekly deadline and to get something down that feels like I’ve made an effort. That I’ve written some kind of story. It probably doesn’t get the kind of traffic that someone with commercial targets would be looking for, but people react well to it, and tend to stick around.

robin graham, a lot of wind, tarifa, spain

Questions:

1. Complete this sentence:

“Spain is a ROUGH and READY sort of country, filled with NOISE, BEAUTY and DRAMA. However, there are too many EXPAT EXPERTS WHO THINK THEY HAVE SPAIN AND THE SPANISH FIGURED OUT and not enough HUMILITY OR OPTIMISM.

2. Why did you move to Spain? Why Tarifa?

Two different answers – Spain because I already had a (fairly tenuous) connection with the place, having briefly lived here as a child and experienced heat and Madrid life and delicious exotic food and all the rest of it. A love for the country never left me. Later, I decided to implement my mid-life crisis on the early side, at around the age of 38, and on a holiday to Granada we fell in love with it and decided to make the move and see what happened.

Tarifa – because my partner found work in Gibraltar and we needed to be within commutable distance of it. Of the many options, we disliked most.  We found Tarifa using Google Earth, believe it or not, and its key role in Spain’s Arab history as well as its natural beauty appealed. It isn’t that close to Gibraltar but it was the nearest place that appealed to us so strongly.

3. What is one of Tarifa’s best kept secrets? 

An Italian community is sufficiently well established here that I can pick up good Burata mozzarella cheese around the corner. I couldn’t find that when I lived in Dublin.

4. How would you describe the culture there? What type of people tend to thrive, and what type don’t do as well? 

No pat answer to this – Tarifa is a mixture. Up till around 30 years ago it was a genuinely rural, fairly poor and deeply andaluz place. Still is deeply andaluz if you ask me but more recently there has been an influx of kite surf enthusiasts and, at least on the surface, it has become fairly cosmopolitan and “surfy”. I’ll reserve judgement on what type of person might thrive here as I’m engaged in the effort myself.

5. What have been (briefly) the best three experiences you’ve had since moving here? 

Impossible, Josh! There’s a giant sand dune a little up the coast. I remember sitting up on it in the middle of the night with K. No wind, no sound. Starry sky, African coast.

We went to a cheese tasting one time because we’d been invited. It was the first invitation we’d had, and we socialized that night in Spanish for the first time.

Each time we go back to Granada we feel more embedded in Spain. Our visits there are a yardstick for us.

6. What has been the worst? And how could it have been avoided? 

Some days, especially in the first year but also in the second and even the third, you can feel lonely and isolated. You speak reasonable Spanish but you still miss loads, especially in Andalucia. I suppose it could be avoided by sticking to expat friends but we don’t want that, so you just plough ahead.

7. How much Spanish could you speak before you moved to Spain? What’s the best way to learn? 

I spoke very rudimentary, greetings level Spanish. I don’t know the best way to learn. By really, really wanting to learn, probably. We are upper intermediate now, maybe lower advanced on a good day, working on fluency.

8. Money is a thorny issue for any would-be expat. Do you have any tips on working, saving, banking etc?

In short, no.

9. Finally, what’s the best photo you’ve ever taken in Spain? Tell us about it!

Impossible! There’s one I took down on the beach that people seem to like. Black and white, a life guard tower and a summer sky. Very simple. But I take a lot of photos (I’m also a photographer) so picking one really is impossible.

robin graham, tarifa, beach, guard tower

Click here to go to Robin’s blog, and here to take a look at his impressive photography portfolio.

A Spanish Inquisition: La Tortuga Viajera

15 Mar erin ridley, la tortuga viajera, spain

There’s not been a great deal of spanish inquiring going on recently here at SFP. None at all actually, since the first round with Marianne of East Of Malaga, so it’s certainly high time there was another. Step forward Erin, of La Tortuga Viajera, a blogger who has been shouting from Madrid for almost five years now, picking up plenty of well-deserved awards  – easyjet’s blogger of the month among them –  and blogging/featuring for the likes of Lonely Planet and Wild Junket along the way. Erin, or the travelling turtle, as her husband cordially nicknamed her, blogs about travel, food, drink and general advice for expats – particularly those living in Madrid. If there ever was a case of just how excellent living the life of an expat in Spain can be, then this is surely it.

Let’s get started shall we?

erin ridley, la tortuga viajera, spain

Name: Erin from La Tortuga Viajera

From: San Francisco, CA

Occupation: I head up marketing at OleiOlive and am also a freelance writer

Time in Spain: 5 years

 

1. Why did you move to Spain? Why Madrid?

I met my Madrileño husband at a bar while visiting Madrid. The rest is history.

2. What is one of Madrid’s best kept secrets?

These days I’m obsessed with Mercado de la Paz. It’s this traditional neighborhood market filled with some 60 stands – from fruit, to meat, and everything in between — and is completely hidden within a city block. I never stop marvelling at the fact that I have such a spectacular and largely unknown market-wonderland just steps away from my home.

3. How would you describe the culture here? What type of people tend to thrive, and what type don’t do as well?

People here live in the moment – for better and for worse — whether that be an eight-hour lunch, or an unnecessarily slow-moving line. Those who can embrace and appreciate these often-frustrating extremes will thrive.

4. What have been (briefly) the best three experiences you’ve had since moving here?

I’ll go with my wedding, my wedding and my wedding, simply because it’s too hard to pick just three!

5. What has been the worst? And how could it have been avoided?

Leaving my life, friends and career behind in the US and then having to adapt to culture here minus those things. It made it hard for me to feel like I had a sense of identity.

6. How much Spanish could you speak before you moved to Spain? What’s the best way to learn?

I was conversational, but not comfortably fluent. I always say the best way to learn Spanish is to tackle it with as many methods as possible. In the end, classes and conversation are fundamental – one without the other won’t get you to the finish line.

7. Money is a thorny issue for any would-be expat. Do you have any tips on working, saving, banking etc?

No. And if someone has any, let me know.

8. Finally, what’s the best photo you’ve ever taken in Spain? Tell us about it!

I’m going to have to go with this shot taken when I was a shepherd for a day up in Soria. I fell in love with those little lambies (and have refused to eat them since).

sheep, lamb, spain, la tortuga viajera

Should I stay or should I go? Expat advice needed…

27 Feb Photo on 27-02-2013 at 13.19

indecision, expat lifeIt’s an all too familiar dilemma for me now: should I stay or should I go? As a single, unchained expat in his mid-twenties, my options are rather black and white looking:

If I stay, I’ll live blithely, comfortably and contentedly for another year. If I go, I’ll most likely find myself working more hours for less money, bereft of the doorstep delights I had previously been privileged to, in a place that I probably don’t like very much.

The choice is simple right? Well you’re bang wrong, actually. I pride myself on putting happiness before everything and that is something I have endeavoured to do here in Spain since I arrived two and a half years ago. But sometimes the demons get to you. For me, it’s usually around the end of summer time that this happens. Here is the long and short of it from last year’s encounter:

Demon (in rasping, malevolent voice): “Go home!” Get to London and find a REAL job!”

Me: “Piss off demon! I have an excellent life – why on earth would I want to trade it all in for a miserable and poverty-stricken one in a country that is renowned for bad weather and a job market that is almost impenetrable?”

Demon: “Because if you don’t, you’ll fall behind. You’re bound to go home EVENTUALLY, and when you do, you’ll need to jump on the career ladder, so the sooner the better you ignorant ass!”

Me: “Rubbish! My career’s already started. I just can’t call it a living yet. In fact, I’m probably better off here than there in terms of long-term goals – teaching English abroad is a perfect accompaniment to blogging and piss-poorly paid freelance journalism. And if I moved home I’d have no other skills to cash in on anyhow, unless I actually taught English as a foreign language in England. And where’s the reward in that?”

Demon: “A fair point, but a move back to the UK is more likely to throw up random job opportunities that could prove life-changing. There will be none of that here; just more of the same, and that’s not going to get you anywhere is it?

Me: “Perhaps you’re right. I can’t live like this forever can I?”

Demon: “No! And there’s Starbucks in London. And that means Banana Java frappuccinos. EVERY. DAY.”

Me: “Oh bloody hell alright! This will be my last year, then I’ll go back”.

Demon: “Do you promise?”

Me: “I promise. Now do one. I’ve been doing my Smigel voice for five minutes now and people are beginning to stare”

Demon: “Yes master”

Five months later, and that promise to self is, yet again, looking rather like it’s on the verge of being broken. It’s an interminable cycle of mind-changing, and it’s always about this time of year that my expat-life loving side gives voice.

Co-incidentally, it’s about this time of year that there is a sudden drop in temperature and influx of various ‘puente’ weekends (long weekends lasting up to four days which are plentiful in spring). But if I look at the bigger picture, I really do have an enviable lifestyle here; a job that pays sufficiently; a social life that encompasses both English and Spanish; a ski-resort not one hour away; beaches not one hour the other way; free food with every beer in almost any bar; and a city typified by a unique cosmopolitan ambience and truly remarkable architecture.

gollum-1b5rnkp

Yet the Smigel within still lives, and has an incredibly annoying habit of sneaking to the surface in order to throw my mind into disarray just as I think I’ve made a final decision. By staying here, am I simply delaying the inevitable? Or am I doing the right thing by pursuing, however remote it may currently be, a career in freelance journalism, whilst teaching English as a means to an end?

My Dad wants me to get into ‘proper teaching’ back home.

“It’s a decent, modestly-paid and important job which offers the stability that a lot of other career paths don’t. Plus, you’re already a teacher, so you’ll already have an advantage there, and think of all the time off! PAID time off!”

As a life-long supporter of the Tories, his stance on the matter surprises me if I’m honest. Then again, he is no stranger to the trials and tribulations potentially suffered by those choosing a self-employed career path. Five years ago, his own company went into liquidation and marked the beginning of a brief, troubling spell of uncertainty in our home. Fortunately, he was quickly able to carve himself a new job at a suitable corporate firm, owing to his knowledge and expertise in his line of work.

It’s a chilling thought though. The last thing I want is a career forever endangered by the prospect of sudden unemployment – especially when I am older, with more mouths to feed. So obviously I can see where Dad is coming from – if I choose to teach full time, for my entire career, then all these potential hazards will be significantly reduced (in theory). And he’s right about the time off. That’s certainly a perk not a lot of other jobs have, and one which would allow me to continue travelling during the summer months. Moreover, I do actually enjoy teaching. I love my job, and I love building a rapport with students of all ages: kids, teenagers or adults.

However, I can’t help but think that if I were to devote my career to full-time teaching in the UK, I would forever yearn for something else. Something more exciting and less rigid, where things could go wrong, but at the same time could open up doors that would otherwise remain closed for an entire lifetime. That said, it is in no way my intention to disparage teaching as a profession; the demands of the job are hugely misapprehended, and that old saying ‘those who can, do; those who can’t, teach’ can go frig themselves off to an episode of The Apprentice. Try managing a class of 7 year olds – one with ADHD, one that cries over a hidden pencil case, one that terrorizes the others, one with epilepsy (better have that insulin injection at the ready!), one that never stops grassing on the other kids and several that scream everything they say – for an hour and a half, alone, successfully, and then tell me your fucking antediluvian adage.

Anyhow, I digress. The truth is I still don’t know what I’m going to do next year. It’s either stay in Granada, listen to the demon and begrudgingly return home or set up shop somewhere else in Spain simply for a change of scenery. Barcelona is tempting me.

Photo on 27-02-2013 at 13.19

Do any other bloggers out there often find themselves in a similar predicament? Has anyone gone home and later regretted it? Or vice-versa? What should I bloody well do!!??

A Spanish Inquisition: East of Málaga

28 Jan Spanish Inquisition, spain, expat, interview

One thing I quickly discovered when I first started this blog was that reading other peoples’ was a key principle to the notion of blogging and fundamentally important if I wanted my own blog to do well. At first, I must confess I did feel rather inundated with the amount of all-singing, all-dancing, super-duper blogs that would pop up on my reader and I tried in vein not to compare them to my tiny, insignificant, feebly themed own. Eventually though, this blog envy quietly subsided and I started to pay more attention to what I was actually reading as opposed to the designs and award widgets etc.

Now, I am an avid reader of countless other blogs and my poor inbox is now drowning in a sea of unread posts, likes, weekly digests and newsletters. I do eventually get around to reading them, but I am easily distracted and often read only one before inadvertently falling down a sort of cyberspace rabbit hole – something I’m sure most of us can probably relate to!

spanish_inquisition

But then we all have our favourites don’t we? As in the ones that just can’t wait to be feasted upon; the ones that automatically leapfrog their way to front of the ever-increasing queue the moment they are published. ‘A Spanish Inquisition‘ is (or rather will be) an interview series that highlights and profiles some of these favourite blogs of mine, and the clever and creative expatriates responsible for them. The series will explore why, where, for how long and how the featured expat lives (or ended up living) in Spain, with a few decent tips and anecdotes thrown in for good measure. If you’re considering a move to Spain or another foreign country then I’m sure this would be positively useful reading for you. If you’re not, then read on anyway. Maybe you’ll change your mind.

The first expat to be featured in ‘A Spanish Inquisition’ is none other than Marianne Elizabeth, the brains behind East Of Málaga, a superb blog which was recently awarded bronze in the Spain division of the BlogExpat awards and picked up easyjet’s ‘Blogger Of The Month‘ award back in September of last year. Lawyer-turned-EFL Teacher, traveller, writer, photographer and self-proclaimed arctophile, Marianne tells us about Malága, lesser-known bull runs and the importance of waking up to bags of lemons. So, without any further ado…

A Spanish Inquisition – East of Malaga

Spanish Inquisition, spain, expat, interview

Name:  Marianne Elizabeth

From:  Originally from Lytham St Annes, a Lancashire town on the north-west coast of England.

Occupation:  I was a criminal lawyer back in England, but that was then. These days, I am fortunate enough to be largely able to do what I want, which increasingly includes writing, taking photographs, travelling and blogging.

Time in Spain:  I’ve lived in Andalucía for 8 years and I love it!

Blogging credentials:  I only got into blogging more seriously this past summer but my blog, East of Málaga, now has over 1100 followers. I was fortunate to have been named “Blogger of the Month” by EasyJet Holidays in September 2012 and have recently been voted one of the top-three expat blogs in Spain in the recent BlogExpat awards.

1.   Complete this sentence:

“Spain is a beautiful and diverse country, filled with mountainsolive trees and a great road network. However, there is too much bureaucracy and not enough jobs for citizens prepared to work hard.

2.   Why did you move to Spain? Why Málaga? 

Moving to live abroad was something me and my hubby talked about for years before we finally did it. We chose Spain and in particular the province of Málaga because of the very mild winter weather and the friendly people.

3.   What is one of Málaga’s best kept secrets?

The city of Málaga itself is a wonderful secret and is often overlooked.  Most people use the airport for arrival in the Costa del Sol and then travel on to their final destination without exploring the many delights the city has to offer. Màlaga is a great city for shopping, restaurants, monuments, markets and much, much more.

4.   How would you describe the culture here? What type of people tend to thrive, and what type don’t do as well?

Spanish culture is very family-orientated, with lots of fiestas and festivals.  If you want to fit in, be prepared to join in with whatever’s going on and practice your language skills. The people who don’t fit in very well are the expats who compare everything to their home country, buy all their grocery from “English shops”, have no language skills and only have English-speaking friends.

5.   What have been (briefly) the best three experiences you’ve had since moving here?

a) Discovering tapas and finding new places to eat them!

b) Visiting and getting to know the classic Andalucían cities of Granada, Córdoba and Seville.

c) Waking up one morning during the first six months we lived in the village of Frigiliana, and finding a big bag of lemons hanging from the front door knob from our Spanish neighbours. It meant we belonged!

Spanish Inquisition, Spain, interview, expat

6.   What has been the worst? And how could it have been avoided?

Being so far away from England when a close relative was terminally ill. Even though we are less than a three hour flight away, being able to get regular/last minute flights during peak tourist months can prove to be difficult and very expensive. It couldn’t be avoided as far as I can see.

7.   How much Spanish could you speak before you moved to Spain? What’s the best way to learn?

I could only speak a few words – basic greetings, numbers and a few standard phrases. The best way to learn is to get stuck in and practice. It doesn’t matter if you get things wrong – people will help you out if they can see you trying.

8.   Money is a thorny issue for any would-be expat. Do you have any tips on working, saving, banking etc?

I would say to carefully consider your finances, think about what you really want from your move to Spain and DO YOUR RESEARCH.  How are you going to support yourself? Bear in mind there is 25% unemployment here, (and even more among the under 25s) so finding a job might prove difficult.

Rent before you buy for twelve months, to include every season. It´s very different living here full-time, as opposed to visiting only during peak holiday periods.

9.   Finally, what’s the best photo you’ve ever taken in Spain? Tell us about it!

Well, I don’t know about the best photo but I can certainly tell you about one of the most fun!   It was taken during the annual Bull Run in the village of Frigiliana. Held each June, I guess you could say this is a scaled-down version of the festival held in Pamplona each year, except they only use young bulls.  The young men of the village try to show their bravado or, in this case, how fast the can run!

spanish inquisition, spain, expat, interview

Bull running in Frigiliana

Marianne is a former lawyer, EFL teacher, neophyte blogger, petrol-head, amateur photographer, traveller, English woman and shameless arctophile. For the past eight years she has lived in Andalucía, in a beautiful area, known as La Axarquía. Through her website, East of Málaga, you can learn about the many delightful villages and towns, the fiestas and festivals, and discover what it is really like to live on the southern coast of Spain on a day-to-day basis.

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