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Graffiti in Granada, and why it should stay…

18 May el niño de las pinturas, el niño, granada, art, graffiti, josh taylor

Last year I posted about Granadino graffiti artist El Niño de las Pinturas. He’s something of a local hero round here, owing to his trademark and instantly recognisable style that adorns the city’s walls, particularly in my bario, El Realejo.

Each piece I have seen is extraordinarily well done, and I insist on taking any friends on a tour of his works each time I am visited. Neither they nor anybody I’ve met here in Granada has ever had a bad word to say about the mystery man’s cultured contributions. Often he is invited by local businesses to come and jazz up their dull and colourless walls, and a couple of the local museums in town even feature him in their brochures. It gives Granada an urban edge that it would otherwise lack.

So it came as a shock when I happened to walk by one of my favourite pieces near the infamous, el niño-fied house, to find that it had  been scrubbed away. Well, nearly anyway. Whoever had been assigned the task hadn’t done a very good job of it; there was still half of it left, as if to suggest that the design had been defiled out of pure spite.

el niño de las pinturas, el niño, granada, art, graffiti, josh taylor

Las Caras, back in October

el niño de las pinturas, el niño, granada, art, graffiti, josh taylor

…and now

What is the point?

Fair enough, at the end of the day these walls are somebody else’s property, and el niño, among other urban artists (some of whose works are admittedly a lot uglier in comparison) probably don’t have permission to use them. But what’s done is done, and as a matter of fact they (el niño’s contributions at least) actually brighten the place up, and bring an extra element to Granada’s cultural side.

I desperately hope that this isn’t the start of a mass graffiti-ridding project. There’s good graffiti and there’s bad graffiti, and el niño de las pinturas is unquestionably of the former sort.

Project Piste 2 Playa: Granada’s Ultimate Daytrip

23 Apr piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip
piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

10.20am

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

15.55pm

“Esquiar por la mañana y tomar el sol en la playa por la tarde!”

­–

“Ski in the morning and sunbathe on the beach in the afternoon!”

That’s how the saying goes here in Granada. Personally, I had always been a little dubious. Not in the sense that I didn’t believe the feat was possible, just as to whether the trip was actually worth the hassle. I mean, snow-covered mountains, albeit much higher up than the stony beaches to the south, must surely be an indication of not-so-hot ground level temperatures? And all that travelling to and fro; hiring a car if you don’t already have one; and the cost of a lift pass that you’d only use for half a day? Hmm.

The idea seemed far-fetched, if not imprudent. But then I asked myself, where’s the fun in life if every now and again a little imprudence isn’t applied to an otherwise perfectly prudent situation? All it had taken was a sudden heat wave and for one friend to casually suggest the idea and I was sold; if there ever was a time to do it, that time was now (or then, rather). We would see this niggling and unproven myth busted right open, and not become disillusioned by mounting expenses or the inevitable struggle of having to tear ourselves away from the mountain come lunch time.

A car was hired for the weekend, which, split between four, wasn’t at all as costly as we had anticipated (see price breakdown below), and better still, the weekend’s weather forecast couldn’t have looked more promising.

The objective was simple: Arrive at the Sierra Nevada for around 08.30am in time for the first lift, ski relentlessly until 13.00pm, grab lunch, hit the road and be at the beach with beer in hand for 15.00pm. It was on.

P2P LOG

07.45am

We awake to crisp, cloudless skies, and begin the day with the galling task of having to wedge our skis, boards, boots, beach bags, sandwiches and springtime, animal-themed onesies into the back of our awfully cramped Ford Fiesta. Eventually, after an accidental detour into the abyss of Granada’s one-way street maze, we are on our way.

09.40am

We finally shuffle into the Telecabina cable car and begin ascending the mountain, though we are already way behind schedule. Traffic had been scarce along the way but a combination of lengthy queuing, impromptu toilet breaks and my apparent inability to dress myself into a giraffe suit had held us up. Sun is shining brightly though, and it’s smiles all round.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

09.55am

The snow, as we had expected, is pure slush, which means gathering speed will be hard, but the pistes are looking surprisingly bare, given that it’s a Sunday. Slush can still be fun anyhow. We make the quick descent to the Stadium chair and dare I say turn a few jealous heads as we zip past in our effortlessly trendy garb.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

10.15am

There’s less slush at the top, but a bit of a draft that sets off an uncomfortable spell of nipple chafage. It soon wanes however, as we waste no time in launching ourselves back whence we came.

11.30am

With two mandatory runs down the stadium completed, we plot our next foray. We spy that Laguna – a run that for one reason or another has eluded us each time we have visited – is open. We make a beeline for its entrance, which involves crossing another, wide and often quite busy piste to get to. Earlier this season I discovered that at the expense of one very indignant skier. This time though, there are far less people to worry about, and despite the stickiness of the increasingly watery slush, other snowboarding friend and I manage to make it across in one clean sweep (skiers needn’t worry what with those stabilizers poles they use).

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

11.45am

I get bored of the flat section and veer off-piste. Big mistake. We are on the backside of the mountain now, which up until this point has seen very little sunlight. Thus, rather than the mushy slushy stuff I was actually rather beginning to enjoy, I am met with a steep grade of rock-hard ice, which then develops into actual rocks. Thankfully, I am able to quickly dodge and navigate my way through without falling or scratching my board (much).

12.30pm

Back at Laguna’s summit, we head as far right as possible, to where there appears to be some actual snow. We are wrong. It’s just more ice slowly melting into slush, though we do find a nice jump, which, after a rather wobbly run-up, I fling myself from with one arm flailing in my wake.

13.00pm

Time for a stroll in the Sulayr superpark. Things have improved since our last outing – at least at the top anyway. Three more boxes and a slanting picnic table have been added, and features of the resort’s recent Freestyle World Cup still remain, though almost all of the jumps are unworkable due to yet more slush. Further down, however, there is a nice beginner section that allows for fast grabs and mini spins. Fortunately, I do not almost kill myself like the last time, though the giraffe onesy at this point has become extremely sweaty. One more run and it’s back to the bottom for a quick bite to eat and Piste 2 Playa part two.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

14.30pm

Fed, changed and almost an hour and a half behind schedule, we finally exit the resort and begin the race down to the coast. The overabundance of slush had meant that it wasn’t as difficult to drag ourselves away.

Playa de Cantarriján is the chosen destination. I have kept my onesy on so I can have my photo taken in the same clothes on the mountain and the beach. This, rather predictably, turns out to be another big mistake, as the temperature seems to increase by at least half a degree for every mile we cover. Photos are taken and some high-pitched whoops are let out before I promptly fall into a dribbling coma.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

The car clock was an hour behind…

15.45pm

I awake to a cheer. We have arrived at Cantarriján, a small, secluded beach just beyond Almuñecar, where, judging by first glance, there doesn’t appear to be an awful lot of beachgoers. I am dripping wet by now, but refuse to remove my novelty outfit until that memorable snapshot is taken. We make our way from the car park.

15.47pm

So it turns out Cantarriján is a nudist beach, yet as we saunter past the restaurant and onto the scrabrous sands the only oddball being gawped at is me. In fact I could not be dressed more inappropriately. The photos are promptly taken, the onesy duly taken – sorry – peeled off and the afternoon’s first beverage cracked open and swiftly consumed. We’ve done it.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

Highly inappropriate garb for a nudist beach

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

16.15pm

Time for a dip in the sea. We last a mere 10 seconds before retreating in tandem with an outburst of squealing more redolent of a group of 12-year old girls. It’s back to the towels, where we eventually pass out to the sound of woozy indie music and gentle waves lapping against the shore.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrippiste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

17.40pm

We awake, and sluggishly make our way to the beachside restaurant for an early dinner. The views, if you’ll forgive the surfeit of unkempt genitalia on show, are wonderful, and the food – freshly caught Bacalao served with chips and steamed veg – and accompanying mojitos go down very well indeed.

20.00pm

As the last of the sun’s rays finally disappears behind the craggy overhang, we concede that it is time to leave. We cram ourselves back into the Fiesta and begin the steady climb to the highway.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

Delish

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

20.05pm

The car boot is wide open, and none of us have noticed.

“Maletero abierto?” my friend says bewilderedly as she points to the dashboard.

“Shit. The boot’s open” replies another, as we suddenly break.

We each envisage a snowboard skidding its way down the hill and ending up beneath the wheel of an unsuspecting vehicle. Fortunately, all skis and snowboards are still with us, but we learn from the next car to arrive that a Tupperware box had been narrowly averted a few corners back. It was mine.

“Step on it” I tell my friend, “we are not leaving without it”. I’m not joking – that Tupperware box is an essential vessel for mountain fodder and I’d be hard-pressed to find another one as good. Thankfully, the box is retrieved and we can all breathe a sigh of relief. The journey recommences.

20.25pm

Stuck in heavy traffic. Not looking good for getting the car back to the hire office (at Granada airport) on time.

22.15pm

Made it – with fifteen minutes to spare, though we have just missed the bus back to Granada city centre and must wait for another that leaves at 23.00pm. No matter. We crumple to a heap among our bags, boards and skis and reflect on what has been a truly epic day. Mission complete.

piste 2 playa, sierra nevada beach in a day, beach, cantarrijan, roadtrip

Fail

The trip was well worth doing, despite my initial uncertainty, and will most definitely be repeated next season. Unfortunately it also marked our last day at the Sierra Nevada for this season, which by the way, has been brilliant, even if I did only make it up six times.

Here’s a breakdown of the cost of our ‘piste 2 playa’ daytrip:

Car Hire: €35

Car Hire Insurance (optional): €36

Petrol: €45

Total (split between four): €115

Ski pass: €41

Parking Fee (between four): €10

Ski rental (if you don’t have your own equipment): €20

Other expenses

Lunch at the beach: €11

Two mojitos: €10

Has anybody else ever attempted this grand challenge? Would you now you know that its doable? Please share and comment!

Top 10 Tapas Bars in Granada

28 Mar Tapas, Granada, Spain, Om Kalsoum, Food
Tapas, Granada, Spain, Om Kalsoum, Food

Shawarma de Pollo y Papa Yunnani, Om Kalsoum

If you’ve ever been to Granada, or you are thinking of visiting someday, then you’ll almost certainly know that its thriving tapas scene is reason enough for making the trip.

Firstly, it all comes for free with any beer, vino or soft drink. Secondly, the culturally diverse nature of Granada as a city is palpably reflected in its array of forward-thinking gastronomy. Whether its traditional Spanish, exotic Moroccan, tongue-tingling oriental style or an inconceivable fusion of all of the above, Granada has it all.

Tapas, Granada, Spain, Poe

El pollo es salsa Thailandés (Thai Chicken Curry) and El Bacalhau á Gomes de Sá (Portuguese style salt cod), Poë

Recently, I entered into Expats Blog’s ‘Top Lists’ writing contest with an entry showcasing what in my opinion are the top ten tapas bars in Granada. I do hope you have a spare five minutes to click the link and have a read through. If you like what you see then maybe you’d even be so kind as to comment on the post and share via Facebook or Twitter!

That would help me lots.

Gracias a todos! J

Day 3 at The Sierra Nevada: Bluebird

4 Mar sierra nevada, spain, granada, snow, powder

sierra nevada, spain, granada, snow, powderFrankly, I’m ashamed to admit this outing marked only my third of the season. Perhaps if I was a student, or clever enough to forge one of these elusive student-status-corroborating matrículas like several of my friends, then I’d have gone up six or seven times by now. But I am neither of those things. So when I do go up I invariably end up having to shell out somewhere within the region of €60. And that’s without ski-hire. It ain’t cheap. But when snow and sun are in such abundance, as is the current case, skiing conditions are superlative in the most positive of senses.

Presently, The Sierra Nevada is enjoying its best spell in years, and last weekend, my trusty clan of skiadores and self set out to make the most of it. We took the early morning bus, aboard which there was none of the usual dosing and dim lighting – just people grinning from ear to ear and buzzing with uncontainable excitement.

The pistes couldn’t have looked any more inviting when we finally arrived. They were caked in the white stuff, gleaming under the cloudless sky. Curls of snow swept along the ridge of each mountain like silver linings, occasioning us to lick our lips in eager anticipation of what lay in wait.

sierra nevada, spain, granada, snow, powder

Anxious to get into the thick of it, we immediately headed leftward toward where we hoped would be a glut of vast, untracked powder fields. A second foray later in the day would prove that there were, but before we could reach the end of the annoyingly flat traverse that would take us there, our vehement spirits got the better of us. We ducked in and glided down a marginally mottled section of off-piste. Tracked or untracked, it was still a slice of hoary heaven.

More of the same ensued. It wasn’t long though, before we decided it was time for a spot of hiking. The fifteen-minute ascent aboard La Telecabina I not only serves as a means of transport but also as the perfect vantage point. Watching skiers and snowboarders alike hurl themselves down the off-piste sections to the right of the gondola, reachable only by foot, had wet, sorry, dowsed our appetites. We navigated a path and got to it. Twenty minutes and coughing fits later we had at last reached our zenith. We stood breathlessly on the same ridge that we had climbed on our last visit, staring into the pristine powder-bowl in the offing. I skulked across to steepest looking part, glancing over the edge every so often, and waited for friend, who had already plunged forth, to give his signal. He had been instructed to film me attempting to conquer a large boulder which had on the previous occasion defeated me. The signal came, and in I dropped, making a beeline for the rock. Don’t hold your breath. I’d love to be able to tell you that I span a perfect 540 with a flawless landing but, alas, I did not. Instead I landed awkwardly and performed another one of my textbook cartwheels. Defeated again.

sierra nevada, spain, granada, snow, powdersierra nevada, spain, granada, snow, powder

 

After lunch, I lost my friends, and, as I was to discover, my phone too, owing to one unzipped jacket pocket. There goes every contact ever made since moving to Spain. Oh well.

‘What better way to cheer myself up than going to the snow park for a couple of hours?’ I thought. ‘Perhaps there I’ll be able to make amends for the tumble taken off-piste earlier that morning’.

How erroneous of me. Not ten minutes after the commencement of my first run did I take a royally painful nosedive. I attempted to do something that I had no chance in hell of doing, basically. It involved a ‘box’ in the shape of a ‘c’, on a sideward incline, and I had soared towards it exhibiting all that sort of zest and pluckiness you’re supposed to when attempting something so dangerous, and leaped without hesitation…

Thwack! I was doomed from the moment I left the ground. Not even remotely close. I’d landed on the front edge of my board, leaning into the box – viz, I was done for. My board had slipped from under me, causing me to fly forward and smash my ribs onto the aluminum pipe that lined the box’s edge. I performed yet another textbook cartwheel, twice, and landed unceremoniously in a crumpled heap.“¿Estás bien tio?” a nearby voice called out. Winded and visibly wounded, all I could muster back was a croaky “Si. Gracias”. Clearly I wasn’t fine, but for the sake of avoiding further embarrassment, I quickly got to my feet, pretended to laugh and fled the scene. Seconds later, when out of sight, I sank to the ground and swore like a trooper.

sierra nevada, spain, granada, snow, powder

I left the park after that, feeling rather crestfallen and as though I should probably seek out a paramedic. I didn’t. Instead I soldiered on and ignored the pain. Stupid, I know, but these conditions were simply too good to pass up. I stuck to the easier-going pistes for the rest of the afternoon, while trying in vain to find my phone. Soon though, it was home time, but not before what has now become a après-ski ritual visit to 100 Montaditos. On Sundays, everything costs a euro, including beer. Suddenly my rib wasn’t hurting anymore, nor was I particularly bothered about my absent phone. It had been yet another epic day at the Sierra Nevada.

Day four hurry up already.

sierra nevada, spain, granada, snow, powder, sunset

 

Who else has been up to cash in on the perfect conditions we are currently having?

All aboard La Sala El Tren, Granada

18 Feb salatrensg9

salatrensg9There aren’t many things I miss about the UK, but the ease of finding a decent club night is undoubtedly one of them. While there exists a great deal of quality live music in Granada, finding it, from time to time, can be a trying task. This can be broadly attributed to the fact that the city’s clubbing scene caters almost exclusively for its burgeoning Erasmus community. You need only set foot in either ‘Granada 10’– a glittery cinema-converted discotheque located in the city centre, or ‘El Camborio’– a two-story hilltop-perched nightclub which, somewhat incongruously, faces the majestic Alhambra Palace, to get wind of that. Both are the most popular club venues in Granada and both play the worst music. It’s a crying shame considering the design and layout of the venues themselves.

Further investigation, however, will prove more fruitful, and La Sala El Tren is perhaps the best example of that. Over the last decade, the warehouse-sized venue has staged a variety of live acts and big-name DJs in the jungle/dub scene – often to sell-out crowds – courtesy of various events labels. Substation is doubtless the most notorious of these, and has in recent years lured the likes of DJ Hype, Congo Natty and Asian Dub Foundation to the Granadian juke joint. More recently, La Sala hosted Tarragona’s Bongo Botrako, whose rumba, reggae and trumpet-fronted rhythms had the 500-strong crowd bouncing in one gleeful and frenzied ska-pit for hours on end.

Tonight though, once again thanks to Substation, it is the turn of drum & bass outfit Dirtyphonics to shake the reverberating venue to its core. Back for their second outing in twelve months, the Parisian duo have drawn a sizable horde for the event – evidenced by the queue more akin to a rugby scrum spewing forth from the door on our arrival. Casual chatter in the scrum reveals why:

“I come here from Jaén” exclaims one bass fan in front.

“And me Valencia!” blurts another, “There is my car!” He nods in the direction of an old, rusting hatchback, complete with a joke-sized speaker system that can be seen through the rear window. It is not the only one. In fact, there is a dozen or so more neatly lined up along the other side of the street, each hammering out their own distorted tempos to their own private posses of rum-chugging ravers. This sort of thing isn’t unusual for La Sala – there is even a dilapidated petrol station to the rear that routinely serves as an overspill area for the club itself. A heightened sense of zeal hangs in the air as we edge closer to the door.

Dirtyphonics eventually take to the stage at 4am, and hold nothing back from the onset. It is pure, undiluted rowdiness; a roaring flow of skanking frequencies and earsplitting basslines from start to finish. It’s unlikely that a great deal of those present will know more than one or two tunes, but people aren’t here to sing along. They are here to dance, lose all inhibitions and behave like demented people for a few hours. There isn’t a still-bodied individual in sight.

Towards the end of the set, Pitchin, one quarter of the Dirtyphonics, can’t resist an impromptu stage dive into the pulsating crowd. It goes down well, as does the fervent spokesman’s final sentiment before they depart:

“Muchas gracias! Nos encanta Granada!”

And we love you too, Dirtyphonics. Please come back soon.

crowdsurf

La Vista del Mirador de San Nicolas, Granada

2 Feb The Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevada

Ahh yes. This is why I live here – The Alhambra: stunning, majestic and purely effortless on a winter’s day in the aftermath of a week of rain in the city/snow in the mountains. AKA perfect photo-taking conditions. Last year we were cruelly deprived of such vistas due to a prolonged dearth of snow, so I jumped at the chance and took a detour on my way to work earlier this week to ensure that I wouldn’t rue a missed opportunity.

It normally takes around 15-20 minutes to climb the winding, cobbled path to El Mirador de San Nicolas, which provides a postcard-perfect view of the city’s moorish and prodigious palace, but it took me just under 10. There was no need to hurry– I just couldn’t wait to get up there and start clacking away!

Anyway, here you have it (or them, rather)…

The Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevadaThe Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevadaThe Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevadaThe Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevadaThe Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevadaThe Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevada The Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain, winter, sierra nevada

Day Two at The Sierra Nevada: KaPOW!

24 Jan sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder
sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

The Sierra Nevada

Imagine, for a moment, that you are a starving vampire, stranded in a faraway place, void of all human life. You haven’t fed in months– a year even*. All you can think about is getting your fix, but it simply never comes. Nary a drop of blood has passed your lips, and you are growing weaker and more despondent by the day; you are essentially ready to give up the ghost. Then, out of nowhere, a mass deluge of the red stuff rains down on your sequestered castle, and you are suddenly spoilt rotten and overcome with euphoric joy. It’s literally a bloodbath. This, in essence, is what has just happened to me. No, I am not a vampire– though I do by my own admission possess a need almost as intrinsic as that of a vampire’s for blood: snow. Living in the south of Spain and all, this may come as a bit of a surprise to you. But, I’ll have you know that not one hour to the east there lies Europe’s most southerly ski resort. If you’re a regular reader of this blog then you may have already gathered as much– I do tend to go on about it a fair bit. Moreover, it won’t have escaped your notice that this post is in fact an account of my second outing into its hoary heights, therefore rendering the aforesaid analogy rather meaningless and inconsistent. However, that first foray, while undeniably enjoyable, lacked significantly in the very thing that makes the trip all worth the while: snow! IMG_0281 There was some snow, but we were, disappointingly, for the most part dependent on the efficiency of the resort’s ever-droning snowmakers, whose job it is to shower its otherwise ice-swathed slopes with artificial sheets of the fine matter. This was more or less the précis of last season’s woeful showing too. So, last week, when my inbox pinged with the latest weather update and I saw this…

sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

…I was, as you can probably imagine, giddier than a schoolgirl. A schoolgirl, if you’ll pardon the faux pas, on a cocktail of glue, helium, e and too much coke (of the cola variety of course). That, or keeping in line with the original analogy– a starving vampire knowingly on the cusp of a long overdue feeding frenzy. You choose. Either way, I was positively roused by what I had seen. Several misspelt and excited text messages later, and we had a date. We would venture forth on the Sunday, when there were, according to my trusty weather update, purportedly perfect conditions: masses of freshly fallen snow and bluebird skies. The drought looked to be finally over. Then, a profoundly fat spanner was flung into the works. Saturday had been so overcome with wind and snow that the mountain had been forced to close. This was a very unsettling development indeed. We ummed and ahhd at great length before concluding that we would still go– despite having lost our driver and there being simply no way of knowing for sure what the morning would bring. We clung in earnest to the hope that my weather update could be trusted.

sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

And still the snowmakers whir away…

Next morning we awoke at 06.30am to the sound of rain battering our bedroom windows. Not a good sign. We geared up, called a cab and raced down to the bus station with half an hour to spare– we didn’t want to be left ticketless with so much to lose. There was nobody there. This was also not a good sign, though the bus was still running, and after a spot of good foresight to call the resort’s automated phone line there was no indication that the resort remained closed. Still, anxiety overwhelmed us. Before long though, other similarly dubious-looking skiers and snowboarders slowly began to trickle in, and we were soon crammed into the back of a distinctly upbeat bus. Things were suddenly looking up. We arrived to most welcoming news– the mountain was indeed… open! Albeit not until 10am and half of the pistes were closed. This was a setback, but an understandable and ungrudgingly acceptable one considering the turn of the previous day’s events.

sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

Good morning!

As we waited inside a ski-hire shop, the sun abruptly broke through the dense clouds, and within minutes, we were staring at the powder-drenched mountain beneath a bold, blue sky. My weather update had proven its worth. The epicness of what lay in wait suddenly dawned on us. This was going to be something pretty special. After a warm-up run spent gliding down the Borreguiles and another all the way back to the underbelly, our exploratory spirits were spiraling out of control. We simply didn’t know where to look during our second ascent aboard la Telecabína; sheer, snow-caked cliff faces to our right, which under normal circumstances wouldn’t so much as draw a glance, were suddenly conceivable, and boulders smothered in untouched, icing-thick layers of snow seduced us to our left. We were basically looking at a new mountain, and anything seemed possible. sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder I could regale you with the fine details of every run but that would be ever so self-indulgent of me, and committing to an awful lot more words. One run will suffice. It came after we had hiked tirelessly up and across the Villén ridge– we had seen various skiers and snowboarders hurtling themselves down the off-piste powder fields that lay yonder all afternoon, and had been feverishly trying to figure out the route up. Eventually we had it, and wasted no time as the looming clouds threatened to spoil proceedings. We picked our spot, and dropped, from an almost vertical starting block, into a barely tracked bowl big enough to weave out seven or maybe eight giant carves. I flew over one of those seductive boulders and met an acrobatic end as I performed two textbook cartwheels on my wild landing. But I was fine. I could have cartwheeled all the way to the bottom and come out unscathed; there was simply so much snow that injuring myself, had I wanted to, was a genuinely difficult thing to do.

sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

Hiking the Villén ridge

And so it went on. We hiked, carved, hopped, popped and wobbled for the rest of the afternoon, lost in the zone and at the mercy of our most harebrained reveries. And it was incredible. I kid you not, there might actually be a smile permanently stretched across my face.

sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

Picture perfect

sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

Standard chairlift posing

sierra nevada, spain, snow, powder

WE LOVE POWDER!

*I’ve an idea that according to folkloric rules vampires shouldn’t be able to live longer than a couple of weeks without feeding but for the sake of an analogy…) Who else has been up to the Sierra Nevada recently? Or any other ski resort? Have you had your powder fill yet? Do tell!

Now that’s what I call a really dirty protest…

20 Jan trash-monster-1

Hurray! The rubbish strike here in Granada has finally been called off. And thank God. Until the cleansing process began this morning, rubbish heaps more reminiscent of actual rubbish dumps had occupied our almost invisible pavements. The strike lasted for a total of 13 days, and has been the longest ever since Inagra, the municipal cleaning company who pay the refuge collectors their wages, assumed concession of the service 28 years ago.

Some newspapers have calculated that by yesterday, there were more than 2,300 tons of rubble garnishing the city’s streets. That’s a lot of rubbish, if you consider that one London bus weighs give or take 10 tons, and workers, or basureros as they are called here in Spainhave reportedly cleared up to 25% of it already. Surprising really, given the fact that none of the original proposals with which the workers were in disagreement have been rectified. They will still receive a 2.5% pay cut – despite having already yielded to a previous cut of 7.5% in 2010 –  and they’re working hours will be increased by 2.5 taking the total to 37.5 per week. The one compromise is a pay rise of 0.75% in 2014, though following this salaries will be frozen for a further four years, meaning even greater hardships to contend with as inflation continues to soar.

rubbish, el realejo, granada, strike, huelga, rubbish strike

Rubbish in El Realejo

The initial attempt to end the strike came not 24 hours before the eventual deal was struck, upon which workers promptly told Inagra to shove their ‘compromise’ where the sun don’t shine. According to Spanish newspaper El País, today’s meeting, though essentially just a repeat of Friday’s, was slightly less irate, and workers were apparently ‘calmer and more understanding’ of the situation, leading to a majority acceptance of the terms.

It couldn’t have come quickly enough, considering the current downpour on the city has steadily turned the growing garbage dunes into stinking, idyllic vermin domiciles. I saw a rat about as long as my forearm scurry into one a couple of days ago. It was vile!

rubbish, el realejo, granada, strike, huelga, rubbish strike

Calle Damasqueros

At least we can be thankful it didn’t happen in the summer; two years ago when I lived in El Puerto de Santa María, there was a garbage strike in late Spring which produced a reek so pungent I retched every time I came within five feet of one of the fly and maggot ridden offal mounds. And that was just after a week.

Can’t wait to see my beloved Granada all cleaned up and looking pretty again. Ugly doesn’t suit her.

Any other expats experienced this before? What’s your view on the matter?

rubbish, el realejo, granada, strike, huelga, rubbish strike

Spain’s actual Christmas: Los Reyes Magos

8 Jan IMG_0255

Christmas is an entirely different kettle of fish in Spain. Most noticeably through lack of ridiculously early shop window displays, painfully irritating Christmas songs and just general blatant commercialism. Nor does anybody tend to tart up their houses with twinkling fairy lights or giant Rudolphs, as is often the case in Britain and the US. In fact, the Spanish treat Christmas very much more as a religious affair. People will often decorate their homes with scaled down versions of nativity displays, or ‘Belénes’, as they are called in Spain, and gather round them on Christmas Eve, before siting down for a traditional fish/lamb supper. Christmas Day itself is generally seen by most as an opportunity to recover from the night before, and is a big day for churchgoers of course.

The most notable difference is that there are no presents given out on Christmas Day. This is left for ‘Reyes Magos’, the epiphany on the 6th of January. It makes a lot more biblical sense really, given the fact that this is when the three wise men allegedly brought gifts to a bawling baby Jesus. After presents, people flock to the town’s streets to watch the cavalcades of the Three Kings trundle through, showering children with sweets as they go.

This year I flew back to Spain earlier than I normally would after the Christmas period in order to catch a glimpse of this epic street party in action. Plus, I had a new camera, and I have suddenly become mildly obsessed with taking photographs. So it was a shame that when I actually did head out to join in the fun I had already, and unknowingly missed the first two Kings of the procession. I did manage to catch the third though. Sort of. And I was lucky enough to see some children dressed as chickens, standing on a truck, also dressed as a chicken, led by a bloke dressed as a cock…erel. There was a chicken-themed song that everybody knew the words to, and it wasn’t the chicken dance. Needless to say, I was baffled. Why is this relevant? Would anybody care to enlighten me?

Here’s what I got anyway:

King, Los Reyes, Granada

The Third King approaches

IMG_0241

Those blurry things being hurled into the street are sweets just to clarify

IMG_0244

A crowded Reyes de los Catolicos

IMG_0243

IMG_0247

“Oh here comes another Ki- oh wait, what?”

IMG_0252

Easter’s only round the corner now anyway. Maybe that’s what it was about…

IMG_0255

A brightly lit Calle Reyes Católicos

Granada, Christmas, Lights, Christmas Lights

Messing about with the manual light settings on new camera. I’m learning!

Granada, Christmas, Christmas Lights

Granada at Christmas

21 Dec Granada, Christmas, lights,

Despite my usual distaste for Christmas lights, owing to their excessively tacky nature, I couldn’t help but feel a touch bedazzled when Granada’s festive decorations went up this year. Since moving to Spain i’ve never really experienced that Christmassy feeling during the run up to the day itself, but it appears Granada is now mounting a case against that. So after two weeks’ worth of procrastination, out eventually came the camera and off I wandered into the gleaming city centre…

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

Granada, Christmas, lights,

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